I have to admit something … I didn’t know Germany had a famous winery culture (or even one at all) prior to moving to Cologne in 2019. I thought beer was the main alcohol consumed here. I had no idea that wine was also an important industry. That misconception was quickly dispelled after my first visit to the Mosel Valley!
Characterized by the snaking Mosel river, half-timbered towns, and hilltop castles, the Mosel Valley is a popular summer and fall destination with German travelers. It is still relatively under-the-radar as a tourist destination, especially for North Americans. Hardly anyone I know from the US or Canada is familiar with the Moselle, but now I tell everyone I can. I love traveling in the Mosel! Spelled Moselle in English or Mosel in German, I will use these two spellings interchangeably throughout this article.
You can visit the Mosel Valley throughout the year, but you’ll find that tourism peaks from late August to early October during the wine harvest. I have visited the Mosel twice, both times in September for my wedding anniversary. You can go behind the scenes of my experience on my Instagram stories. It was pretty obviously busy, but it wasn’t a major hurdle. We had to book hotels about a month ahead, and dinner reservations were important. The middle of summer is a lovely time to go because everything will be green and lush with minimal crowds. The weather also permits you to hike and cycle the region more comfortably.
About the Mosel Valley
Flowing from France and Luxembourg, the Moselle river winds through the hilly German state of Rhineland-Palatinate like a snake, carving these steep massive curves in the hillside to form the Mosel Valley. This picturesque region is renowned for white wine, especially its Riesling. Grapes in the Moselle Valley originate from the Roman times when they brought grapes here in order to provide a local source of wine for their garrisons.
The Moselle Valley is one of Germany’s most important wine producing regions, although Riesling grapes are grown throughout the country. You’ll find that Germans are quite proud of their white wine and Riesling is incredibly popular. In fact, Germany is responsible for approximately 50% of the world’s Riesling cultivation and production. Combined with the Upper Rhine River Valley, this part of the country produces 70% of all German wine.
Mosel Valley Long Weekend Itinerary
Day 1: Koblenz to Cochem
Because of its advantageous location at the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel rivers, Koblenz is a perfect destination to start your long weekend in the Mosel Valley. You can see most of the major highlights within a few hours, so dedicate a morning and early afternoon to exploring this historic city.
Koblenz ranks among Germany’s oldest cities and bursts with sights from the past 2,000 years. Start the day with a cable car ride over the Rhine river up to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. This strategic military outpost is perched on a high rock plateau that has been almost continually occupied since as early as the 4th century. The fort itself has been converted to a museum, which I found kind of boring. But what you really come up here for is the view! The fort offers the most incredible view of Koblenz and you will get a bird’s eye view of the Rhine & Moselle coming together.
Head back down to the city for a few attractions and lunch before moving on to your next stop in the Mosel Valley. For sightseeing, Koblenz’s old town hosts a variety of interesting sites, like the Basilica of St. Castor, Romanesque Church of Our Lady and the city’s history column, a sculptural marvel that documents the 2,000 year history of Koblenz. If you’re not one for sights, simply wandering the romantic alleys and narrows streets in the Altstadt will keep you occupied.
From the Koblenz main train station, you can hop on a regional train heading to Cochem which is your next stop on your long weekend in the Mosel Valley. If you prefer to drive, it will take about 45 minutes but the main road runs directly along the banks of the Mosel River. You’ll get your first lovely views of Germany’s famed wine region. The town of Cochem itself is a little touristy in my opinion, so I recommend staying outside of the Old Town area (more on that below).
Cochem is fairly well-known because of its beautiful and Instagrammable castle in the center of town. Known locally as Reichsburg, Cochem Castle is precariously perched 300 feet above town along the river banks. You are able to walk up to the castle walls for free without a ticket. The walk up is lined with shops and restaurants, as well as a few parks and nice viewpoints. If you want to go inside the castle, you’ll need to be on a ticketed tour.
Believed to have origins dating back to 1100, this castle has seen many iterations over its long history. King Louis XIV actually had his troops destroy the castle completely in 1689, after which it sat in ruin for almost 200 years. It wasn’t until a wealthy Berlin businessman bought the ruins that the castle was rebuilt into the splendor you see today. The original castle was built in a Romanesque style, but when the new one was constructed, it took on a largely neo-Gothic appearance.
